Blomax on The IR Heating Experts Team

Replacement lamp for SIG Blomax 10

Fri, 24 Jul 2026 13:12:17 +0800

Stop Fighting Your SIG Blomax 10 Heating Issues

Ever feel like you’re chasing your tail with your oven settings? You tweak one zone, and suddenly another part of the bottle looks cloudy or the walls are uneven. Here is the secret: it’s usually not your settings. Most of the time, the real culprit is “power drift.” If you’ve mixed and matched lamp brands or used tubes with slightly different wattages, you’ve basically built “cold spots” right into your preforms. It’s frustrating, and it wastes a lot of plastic. Why the tiny details matter We build our Replacement lamps to mirror the original OEM power curves. Why? Because in this business, 5% makes a massive difference. If your lamps aren’t perfectly matched, the infrared profile gets wonky. When that happens, operators usually try to “over-fire” certain zones to make up for the weak lamps. That’s a recipe for disaster. You end up with burnt preforms and a lot of headaches. We keep our tolerances tight so every single tube puts out the same amount of heat. No guessing. No over-compensating. Plug and play These are honest-to-goodness drop-in replacements. We use high-grade quartz and tungsten because these things have to handle rapid cycling without giving up. The connectors fit tight, too. No loose ends, no arcing at the terminals. You just slide them into the Blomax 10 chassis and you’re good to go. No need to mess with your wiring or tweak your reflectors. We use shortwave infrared, so the heat actually gets deep into the PET wall where it belongs. A quick word of advice from the field High-wattage lamps are great for fast cycle times, but they bring a lot of heat into the oven. If your ventilation or cooling blowers are clogged with dust, that heat has nowhere to go. It soaks back into the ends of the lamps and kills the filaments way faster than it should. Keep your airflow clear. It’s a simple bit of maintenance, but it’s the only way to make sure your tubes actually last.

Replacement lamp for SIG Blomax 6

Sun, 19 Jul 2026 19:28:48 +0800

Stop the Glass Breakage on Your SIG Blomax 6

There is nothing more frustrating than a SIG Blomax line grinding to a halt because another tube snapped. It kills your OEE and leaves your team scrambling. The problem is that most standard lamps just aren’t built for this. Between the constant vibration of high-speed PET blowing and the brutal heating and cooling cycles, they basically just give up. We got tired of seeing that happen, so we built a reinforced version specifically for the Blomax 6 footprint. Getting the heat right Here is the thing: the Blomax 6 is picky. You need that perfect balance of wattage and voltage to hit the glass transition temperature exactly. If you’re off, you end up with “pearling” or walls that are way too thin in some spots. Our lamps are true drop-in replacements. They match the OEM dimensions and electrical load perfectly. That means you can just swap them in. No rewiring cabinets, no messing with your PLC timing, no headaches. Built to take a beating Most lamps fail at the pinch seal or the connector because the glass expands and contracts until it finally snaps. We fixed that by using high-purity quartz and toughening the whole envelope. We also stabilized the filament. This stops those internal arcs that usually kill a lamp way before its time. It’s basically a tougher, sturdier version of the same tool. A quick reality check Now, these lamps will definitely stretch out your maintenance intervals, but they aren’t magic. They can’t fix a machine that’s being ignored. If your cooling fans are choked with dust or your reflectors are oxidized, the lamp is still going to overheat. You’ve got to keep those reflectors clean. If the IR energy can’t hit the preform, it just soaks back into the housing and cooks the lamp. Bottom line? These fit your Blomax 6 specs exactly. You get the heat density you need for those high-speed runs, and your techs spend a lot less time cleaning up broken glass.